LONDON 2017
We last visited London in November 2015. Our main goals for this visit were a continuation of the Capital Ring and London Loop walks (begun in 2008; 15 segments each), a first visit to the inside of Hampton Court Palace, an exploration of the area around St. Paul's, using a 1905 Baedecker's Guide to London, and a trip outside the city to see the ruins of Hadleigh Castle. I also hoped to encounter some of the world's best drinking establishments, and Deb was counting on some fabulous coffee and cafes.
We flew direct from Toronto this time, on Air Transat. Due to the horrible exchange rate with our money against US dollars, we could not fly from Detroit. That meant a four hour drive to Toronto, and a four hour drive home after the journey. More about this later.
Arrival Day: Walk #1
We arrived at Gatwick on a Sunday morning . We had no trouble clearing customs or getting our luggage. Our train to East Croydon was non-stop and very fast (14 minutes). We were soon at our favourite London hotel (Jurys Inn, Croydon). Our room was ready. We cleaned up and headed out for some lunch. Afterwards we briefly napped, then went in search of Morden Hall Park.
Sign board at Morden Hall Park.
We took the Croydon Tramlink service to Phipps Bridge stop, immediately entering the welcoming park land. We saw much of the park on our 2-mile wander, enjoying a cafe stop, the wetlands, a walk along the banks of the River Wandle, the remains of a snuff mill (tobacco was ground here into snuff), woodlands, gardens, and serene paths. After spending overnight on a plane from Toronto, it felt good to stretch our legs and loosen up a bit. We seemed to hit a perfect week to visit. Except for one day (Wed.) the weather was agreeable for walkers. Spring blossoms were voluminous and exquisite.
Phipps Bridge tramlink stop. The park
entrance is to the left.
Part of the weir and snuff mill at Morden Hall Park.
The gardens were beautiful at Morden Hall Park.
Ditto.
London Loop Segment 6 (Mon./Tues.)
East Croydon Station, on the platform. This station is our main gateway to the galaxy of adventures that await in London.
Segment 6 of the London Loop completed a half-circle of the path, beginning along the Thames at Erith and ending at the Thames at Kingston. We did the newest segment over two days, completing 10.2 miles of it the first day, and the remaining 2.3 miles the next day. This is a very fun segment, well worth walking once the initial golf course is passed, as well as a sizable chunk of quiet suburbia.
The walk begins at Banstead Station. A word about this lonely Zone 6 station. One train per hour (about as primitive as things get within London). Nothing at all around or near it, as in cafe, pub, High Street. It's on a single track line from Sutton. Train leaves Sutton, goes up the track three stations (we're #2!), then comes back. It's a very lonely line. Anyway, we missed our connection by one minute, giving us a 59 minute wait till the next train. We tramped around Sutton, enjoying our short visit to this hilltop borough of London. The High Street is for pedestrians only, and drops steeply downhill as it goes.
A gigantic wall mural on the side of a building in Sutton. I'm guessing
it has something to do with the town's history.
Most small rail stations in and around London can be described as utilitarian at best. Not someplace you want to spend loads of time. However, Sutton Station is well-cared for, and has real flowers and a pleasant cafe/tea room on the platform. We went into town anyway, as our travel cards allowed for unlimited travel.
The Loop recommences soon after leaving Banstead Station (6 passengers got off here), as we first had to cross a golf course (last crossed in Nov. 2015), then pass through an interminable patch of suburbia. The streets were so quiet on our morning walk-through that we encountered nothing but learn-to-drive school cars with their intent pupils. However, the outer bits of London cannot be walked forever without encountering vast areas of linked green spaces (which is the entire purpose of the Ring and the Loop).
Even the golf courses on the Loop have some redeeming qualities!
A different type of arch is passed, as rail lines are encountered and dealt with.
Nonsuch Mansion, built in the Gothic style in 1804.
Nonsuch Park; remains of Henry VIII's banqueting hall and palace are here.
The first really huge park encountered is Nonsuch. We were able to visit the cafe at Nonsuch Mansion, a gothic house built in 1804. Then we passed the ruins of Nonsuch Palace, one of dozens built by Henry 8th. Excavated in 1959, the floor plan layout can be walked. The only remaining feature above ground is a low wall, once part of the banqueting house.
The next part of the walk brought us into Ewell, and especially into Bourne Hall Park. The Hall no longer exists (a modernistic library is in its spot), but the grand gate, surmounted by a statue of an historic and altruistic dog, survives and the grounds are now a public park. When we began the Loop south of Erith about ten years ago, we wandered up the Cray River from its end into the Darent, then followed the river/creek a long distance, nearly to its source. This time, we followed the River Hogsmill from Ewell all the way down into Kingston and the Thames River. The sources of the spring-fed river are the ponds in Bourne Hall Park.
Mill Pond, Ewell, one of the sources of the River Hogsmill (used to be the property of a Mr. Hoggs, who had a mill near here). The river flows downhill from here all the way to the Thames. Gunpowder and flour mills once dotted the landscape. One historic mill remains. Many of the gunpowder mills frequently exploded. Fun times.
A cute little bridge across the Hogsmill.
Deb follows the River Hogsmill; destination Thames River at Kingston. In Canada we would call this a creek.
The first of 32 pub stops for the week was in Ewell (the Wheatsheaf). All will be revealed in Part 4 of this entry, appropriately called "The Pubs". The 2nd pub stop was also along the banks of the Hogsmill. Toby Carvery is a restaurant/pub chain that we might normally use for their restrooms. However, upon checking into their menu, we found no less than 6 vegan main dishes!!! That's more than some veg restaurants! And they had cask ale! Anyway, we took a long break, enjoyed a fabulous meal, drank coffee, beer, and bubbly water. A good time was had by all!
Deb's vegan meal, a mushroom tart, from Tobey Carvery. And inexpensive.
St. John the Baptist Church basement
stairs. Behind me is the cemetery.
We finished up Monday's walk at Berrylands Station, which conveniently had a welcoming pub right next door. On Tuesday we resumed our walk from Berrylands, continuing on to the Thames in one go. It was only a couple of miles, and mostly urban walking. However, even in the heart of Kingston we managed to stay close to the Hogsmill.
Wysteria Hysteria is how one London paper described the Spring appearance of this fragrant and beautiful plant. It was everywhere on our walks.
The Coronation Stone now lies in central Kingston, first used in the 900s to crown Saxon kings.
13th C. bridge still stands, with the Hogsmill nearly at its final destination.
The final huzzah of the Hogsmill, as it empties into the Thames
(behind me).
Kingston Bridge over the Thames marks the end of Loop Segment 6.
Once at Kingston Bridge, Segment 6 of the London Loop was over. We relaxed at a Sam Smith's pub. They had a really decent 2.8% beer, which tempted Deb into having her first half pint in years! I had their cider and some of their extra stout! It was a great way to finish up the south half of the Loop!!
Hampton Court Palace (Tues.)
Back in 2006 we visited the exterior portion of the palace, namely the gardens. This time around we were going to finally get inside! After a long walk through Home Park (no access to the palace, as we found out the hard way), we made it there around 2 pm. School groups were just leaving (yay!). We stopped first at the cafe for some badly needed coffee, then began exploring the complex. The history of the palace is too convoluted to give here, but suffice it to say that there are several historical layers of architecture at work here, and though Henry VIII began it all, things continued well after his demise.
Our unorthodox approach to the palace took us to the far end of Long Water. This huge pond once held royal regattas.
We came across the Royal deer herd in Home Park, and had to cross through them to reach our exit gate to the Thames path and on to the palace proper.
A view back down Long Water from upstairs at the palace. We saw things from both ends!
Tudor palace tower gate, showing the clock.
Clock detail.
Courtyard in the Georgian part of the palace.
The baroque section of the palace was meant to rival Versailles. This later section was never completed, and thus much of Henry's Tudor palace still stands.
Deb checks out the apartment-size fireplace in the Georgian palace, along with the well-hatted guardians.
Hampton Court Palace exterior, from the bridge over the Thames.
...to be continued.
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