London Trip #14: THE PUBS
A trip to London would not be complete without a visit to as many pubs as possible (for me anyway). This time around I managed 32 stops. A few pubs were revisits from earlier trips; I also made two stops at two of the pubs in the week we were there. A large majority were first time visits, as we encountered them on our walks. The English pub has been vanishing at an alarming rate in the past several years, as they are sold to property developers to be turned into flats, shops, and restaurants. Many of the pubs being closed were actually very successful establishments; it doesn't seem to matter. This has happened in London more than anywhere else. While there are still a healthy number of fine pubs, there are fewer each time we visit.
The beer scene continues to improve, and though I am mostly here for the cask ales, craft draught taps are appearing regularly nearly everywhere. The shelf life of cask ale is about 3 days; it goes bad once opened after this time. Draught beer, which is kept cold, can last indefinitely. So while craft taps are making more and more of an appearance, there is no shortage of cask ale, and there continues to be a stunning variety of ales. In order to maximize the number of different ales and ciders I could sample, I drank only half pints of each type. Our (infallible) jet lag program recommends no alcohol on departure day and arrival day.
Ratings scale
* star. Poor quality pub or beer.
** stars. Good, solid pub or beer. Would make a fine local.
*** stars. The best of the best. Worth many visits or pints.
MONDAY
1) The Wheatsheaf (West Ewell) ** stars
--Butcombe Bitter *
--Sharps Doom Bar **
Our little corner of pub heaven at The Wheatsheaf.
My first two ales of the journey.
There is a special feeling one gets when entering the first pub of a journey to London. I actually walked into another one nearby before this one, and deemed it not worthy of my reintroduction to one of the greatest London institutions. This one is near Ewell West station, and is passed on London Loop Segment 6. It was quiet on our visit and we had half the pub to ourselves. A better ale choice would have upped the rating.
2) Toby Carvery Worcester Park ** stars.
--Sharps Doom Bar ** 1/2
Tobey Carvery, along London Loop Segment 6. They had excellent vegan choices for dinner.
The Sharps ale was so well kept here that I ended up ordering a 2nd half pint. This place has an amazing selection of vegan food, and we ate a very late lunch/early dinner here as we neared the end of our Loop segment.
3) Berrylands Pub (Berrylands Station) ** stars.
--St. Edmund's Golden (Greene King) **
The Berrylands
This was Monday's end-of-walk pub, just up the hill from Berrylands Station. It is a big, comfortable place, with three different seating areas and two bars. Frankie is the playful pub dog. We returned next morning to continue our walk from here, ordering coffee before setting out for Kingston.
4) Hand and Racquet (Wimbledon Station) ** stars.
--Wimbledon Tower Special Pale Ale *1/2 .
Our visit to the Hand and Racquet wasn't this peaceful. Internet photo.
This busy pub close to Wimbledon Station offers six cask ales, which earned it an additional half star. It was raining and crowded at the rush hour on our visit.
5) Alexandra Pub (Youngs) **
--Youngs Special Ale **
Outside looking in--internet photo. It was raining on our visit.
Inside looking out--my photo.
Next door to the Hand and Racquet, this is a more comfortable and memorable pub. Youngs have not updated their ale offerings in a very long time, and usually there is very limited choice at their pubs. With better choices this pub would have earned another half star.
6) The Cronx Taproom (Cronx Brewery, Croydon) **1/2 stars.
--Sea Cider (Medium Sussex Cider) ***
--Cronx Porter, Entire ***
Boxpark is a new addition to the area of East Croydon Station. It includes restaurants, a large common seating area, two taprooms, cafes, and live music events. A happening place.
A small but wonderful taproom, with 7 casks and a large number of craft draughts.
Cronx Taproom
Part of Boxpark, adjacent to East Croydon (look it up). This new taproom offers not only their ales and draughts, but many guest brews as well. It is small but cozy, usually busy, and had the best beer and cider offerings of any place visited this time. A few short steps from our hotel, circumstances only allowed me to visit twice. Both times were memorable.
--Sam's Cider Reserve **1/2
--Extra Stout **1/2
--Alpine Lager **
8) The Ram, Kingston ** stars.
--Park Pale Ale (made in Kingston) **(no photo available)
--Lilley's Apple/Blackberry Cider **1/2
This is a craft beer destination pub in Kingston, and they had several draughts and many bottles. I stuck with the hand pulls. On the Thames, and close to the city center.
9) The Mill, Kingston *1/2 stars.
--Old Rosie Cider **1/2
A forgettable pub, but it is next to Riverside Vegetarian restaurant, where we met Caroline for dinner Tuesday night, after completing the London Loop part 6, and then visiting Hampton Court Palace. It turned into our latest day, and we got back to the hotel exhausted around 10:30 pm. We vowed to have much earlier nights from here on. However, at dinner we had a window overlooking the Thames, and they had Old Rosie on cask!
--Truman's Zephyr **
This is a large pub in a busy area north of St. Paul's Cathedral. It has an open concept, though there are many different areas to sit. There are plenty of windows looking out on to the busy street. There are 8 real ales, including interesting guests. The pub has unusual framed bird art on the walls (see a photo in Part 2).
11) The Viaduct (Fullers) Across from Old Bailey. *** stars.
--Gales Spring Sprinter **
A beautiful pub inside and out, a classic old London gin palace. I was excited about visiting and enjoyed my stay. Lovely painted murals on the walls, and an amazing old gin cabinet at the rear. Comfortable and worth visiting.
12) Cittie Of York (Sam Smith's) *** stars.
--Old Brewery Bitter **1/2
My 3rd visit to this wonderful place, and Deb's 2nd. Unique in London! Gothic wooden ceiling, an unusual central stove, highly-sought private booths, giant beer barrels on high, dark wood everywhere, and Smith's old cask ale on hand pull (aged in wood!). A London legend!
13) The Harp *** stars.
--Dark Horse Espresso **1/2
--Millwhite's Medium Scrumpy Cider ***
My favourite pub in London, and I now try to visit each time we come over. An impressive range of real ales and ciders. We sat upstairs for the first time, as it was very noisy and crowded downstairs. Nice and quiet upstairs. Perhaps London's smallest toilets. Dark Star beers feature prominently here, and several ciders from Millwhites. Both are favourites of mine. They also have an impressive stock of non-alcoholic beverages, including organic juices. A world treasure of a pub! Watch for the James Mason portrait on the wall.
14) The George (Wetherspoons) **1/2 stars.
--Tillingbourne (Shere) Black Troll **
This is our Croydon local, our go-to pub close to the hotel. It has 17 hand pulls (and thus the high rating), with beers from all over England constantly rotating. Oddly, I only drank one beer here on this trip, despite two visits.
--Oakham Citra **1/2
--Old Rosie Cider **1/2
A comfortable and dependable pub. This was the only time I saw an Oakham ale on cask. We have been to their brewpub in Peterborough, and their ales are a favourite of mine. This pub is just steps from Balham Station. Another good pub, The Regent, is right around the corner. We had seven pubs available to us on a short Capital Ring walk today. We managed four.
16) The Hope (Wandsworth Common Station area). **1/2 stars.
--Hop Air Balloon IPA (Horn) **
Capital Ring Segment 5 is a glorified pub walk! This one is a really nice pub near the Common and the station. We got snug and comfy at a windowside table. When we got up to leave, Deb found someone's credit card down the seam of her chair. We turned it in at the bar.
17) The County Arms (Youngs) **1/2 stars.
--Wimbledon Common Pale Ale **
The local beer was a tiny bit sweeter than most ales, and was quite refreshing. This is a wonderful pub and restaurant, recently refurbished. It lacks the highest rating only due to the limited real ale selections. Youngs Brewery seems to be stuck in the mud for choices. At least they had a local guest ale on cask. Their own beers need updating.
18) The Halfway House (Youngs) ** stars.
--Orchard Pig Reville Cider **1/2
The overall cider choices have vastly improved since our visit in Nov. 2015. This is a very decent pub, but Youngs beer needs to modernize their ale offerings. They all seem to have great guest beers and ciders, though.
--Mortimer's Orchard Cider (Westons) **
This is a very fine village pub, but with limited seating on the bar side. Deb had Cawton Ginger/Apple drink. The Cawton non-alcoholic line is quite extensive, and delicious. This is the closest pub to the station.
20) The Peterboat, Leigh-On-Sea ** stars.
--Wibbler Hop Black ** stars
This giant waterside establishment has a small bar area roped off from the much larger, louder, and very busy restaurant section. It's mainly a fish restaurant, with a few casks. Almost across the street from the Crooked Billet. Lovely outdoor area.
21) The Mayflower, Leigh-On-Sea **1/2 stars.
--Dark Star Pale Ale ***
--Colchester Brewery Brazilian ***
A wonderful riverside pub with seven interesting cask ales! A small but friendly downstairs bar. I hit pay dirt with both ales here! It is the furthest waterfront pub from the station. I would probably skip The Peterboat next time. I could have tried all 7 ales here, as they serve 1/3rd pints. Definitely worth the trip from London.
--Steam Box Soul Train **1/2 stars
Positioned across Kingston Bridge at the entrance to Home Park, the Olde King's Head has a very large and very nice pub dog (photo part 3). He likes having his back scratched. He also likes sitting on the bar foot rail. Enter Home Park at your own risk! We got lost twice in there. Stay at the pub instead.
23) Builder's Arms (Fullers) Croydon *** stars.
--Fuller's ESB ***
A wonderful neighbourhood pub.
Croydon has enough fine pubs to keep me going for a very long time. There are at least five west of our hotel, and four more east of it. I enjoyed a perfect pint of a favourite beer. This is a very cozy, very charming, very quiet back street local pub. I could live right there! Located on the "other" side of the East Croydon station. This was a new area for us to explore.
24) The Oval Tavern Croydon **1/2 stars.
--Reverend James (R. A. Brain) **1/2
This is a very funky pub, offering good ales and craft beer, vegan food, acoustic music, and a lively vibe. It is very close to the Builder's Arms making for a wonderful afternoon of ale and pub sitting. A lot of people are very lucky to have these pubs as their "local." I can only dream.
25) Porter and Sorter Croydon ** stars.
--Ringwood 49er **
This vast pub sits right beside East Croydon Station, on the east side. We have never been here before! We met Caroline here before heading out for dinner. They have limited ale on offer, but there were craft taps and bottles, too.
--Twickenham Naked Ladies **
One of my all-time favourite London pubs, this Thameside establishment couldn't get much better. It was open early on a Sunday, too! Stroll the river, then sit and sip. My first visit in 12 years!
27) The London Apprentice **1/2 stars.
--Plain Brewery "Inspiration" **
This is another very old and venerable establishment, and we visited it many years ago. It is on the river in Isleworth, not far from another Sam Smiths' pub, also on the river. The Apprentice has one of the best signs ever. A great place to watch the tide come in.
28) The Tabard **1/2 stars.
--Thistly Cross Cider ***
--Courage Smoked Porter *
Just around the corner from Turnham Green Station and the Green, this Grade II listed historic building is also a theatre (upstairs). We made a special trip to visit here. There were 9 casks! Sadly, my one beer choice was a watery flop (it sounded good), but the cider was amazing! We had planned to settle down and have coffee, too, but their machine was (mostly) broken. Wish I'd tried the Oatmeal Stout!
29) The Cronx (2nd visit-- see also #6)
--Seacider Blood Orange ***
--Saltaire Elderflower Blonde **1/2
Incredible cider--wow!!. The beer was girly but quite delicious and aromatic. A great taproom!
30) The George (2nd visit--see also #14)
--Bell's Scotch ***
We ate our second meal here of the week. I had Scotch instead of beer or cider.
31) Jurys Inn Bar
--Laphroig 10-Year Old Scotch ***
My first ever visit to our hotel bar. They had my favourite Scotch, and it was our final night...
--Cheddar Valley Cider **
Once past security at Gatwick a very busy Wetherspoon's pub awaits. We had morning coffee here, and I also had morning cider.
Thanks for stopping by!
Mapman Mike
TUESDAY
7) The Gazebo (Sam Smith's), Kingston **1/2 stars.--Sam's Cider Reserve **1/2
--Extra Stout **1/2
--Alpine Lager **
The pub lies between the two riverside gazebos. Their stairs to the river can also be seen.
Deb was able to sip a half pint of this ale twice on our journey, due to its very low alcohol and very good taste.
On the Thames River just upstream from Kingston Bridge. It is a large, bright, airy pub with river access via its own staircase down. Sam Smith's Brewery makes my favourite bottled beer (available in Detroit), and it was fun trying our their draught beer. They had a 2.8% lager on tap, so Deb treated herself to a half pint, her first glass of beer in several years. I also tried it, and it was very good!!8) The Ram, Kingston ** stars.
--Park Pale Ale (made in Kingston) **(no photo available)
--Lilley's Apple/Blackberry Cider **1/2
A craft beer destination pub in Kingston. Internet photo.
9) The Mill, Kingston *1/2 stars.
--Old Rosie Cider **1/2
Inside The Mill
WEDNESDAY
10) Pater Nostre (Youngs) St. Paul's ** stars.--Truman's Zephyr **
We had a quiet visit to the Patre Nostre pub.
11) The Viaduct (Fullers) Across from Old Bailey. *** stars.
--Gales Spring Sprinter **
A beautiful old pub across from Old Bailey, and at the start of the Holborn Viaduct.
Our corner/window table inside the Viaduct.
12) Cittie Of York (Sam Smith's) *** stars.
--Old Brewery Bitter **1/2
Cittie of York
13) The Harp *** stars.
--Dark Horse Espresso **1/2
--Millwhite's Medium Scrumpy Cider ***
The Harp
14) The George (Wetherspoons) **1/2 stars.
--Tillingbourne (Shere) Black Troll **
Internet photo.
THURSDAY
15) Moon Under Water (Wetherspoons) Balham. **--Oakham Citra **1/2
--Old Rosie Cider **1/2
16) The Hope (Wandsworth Common Station area). **1/2 stars.
--Hop Air Balloon IPA (Horn) **
The Hope
Our table at the Hope.
17) The County Arms (Youngs) **1/2 stars.
--Wimbledon Common Pale Ale **
County Arms
Our window table at the County Arms.
Staircase to function room at the County Arms.
18) The Halfway House (Youngs) ** stars.
--Orchard Pig Reville Cider **1/2
Halfway House
FRIDAY
19) The Crooked Billet, Leigh-On-Sea **1/2 stars.--Mortimer's Orchard Cider (Westons) **
Leigh-On-Sea first stop
Inside the Crooked billet.
Crooked billet bar.
20) The Peterboat, Leigh-On-Sea ** stars.
--Wibbler Hop Black ** stars
Leigh-On-Sea Pub #2
21) The Mayflower, Leigh-On-Sea **1/2 stars.
--Dark Star Pale Ale ***
--Colchester Brewery Brazilian ***
The Mayflower, Leigh-On-Sea pub #3
A wonderful riverside pub with seven interesting cask ales! A small but friendly downstairs bar. I hit pay dirt with both ales here! It is the furthest waterfront pub from the station. I would probably skip The Peterboat next time. I could have tried all 7 ales here, as they serve 1/3rd pints. Definitely worth the trip from London.
SATURDAY
22) Olde Kings Head *1/2 stars.--Steam Box Soul Train **1/2 stars
This pub has the large dog that likes to sit on the bar foot railing.
23) Builder's Arms (Fullers) Croydon *** stars.
--Fuller's ESB ***
Croydon has enough fine pubs to keep me going for a very long time. There are at least five west of our hotel, and four more east of it. I enjoyed a perfect pint of a favourite beer. This is a very cozy, very charming, very quiet back street local pub. I could live right there! Located on the "other" side of the East Croydon station. This was a new area for us to explore.
24) The Oval Tavern Croydon **1/2 stars.
--Reverend James (R. A. Brain) **1/2
Less than a minute's walk from the Builder's Arms to yet another great neighbourhood pub.
25) Porter and Sorter Croydon ** stars.
--Ringwood 49er **
The Porter and Sorter is adjacent to East Croydon station (east side).
SUNDAY
26) The White Cross (Youngs) Richmond Upon Thames *** stars.--Twickenham Naked Ladies **
A favourite pub, in Richmond and on the Thames.
Our table at the White Cross, Richmond.
Richmond Bridge, from inside the White cross.
27) The London Apprentice **1/2 stars.
--Plain Brewery "Inspiration" **
A very classy pub sign.
28) The Tabard **1/2 stars.
--Thistly Cross Cider ***
--Courage Smoked Porter *
The Tabard, Turnham Green.
9 casks were on offer at the Tabard.
29) The Cronx (2nd visit-- see also #6)
--Saltaire Elderflower Blonde **1/2
Incredible cider--wow!!. The beer was girly but quite delicious and aromatic. A great taproom!
30) The George (2nd visit--see also #14)
--Bell's Scotch ***
We ate our second meal here of the week. I had Scotch instead of beer or cider.
31) Jurys Inn Bar
--Laphroig 10-Year Old Scotch ***
Jurys Inn lobby and bar.
MONDAY
32) Flying Horse, Gatwick Airport ** stars (Wethies)
--Cheddar Valley Cider **
Gatwick Airport.
Thanks for stopping by!
Mapman Mike
