We left from Toronto on Sunday, Dec. 2nd and returned Sunday, Dec. 9th. It involved a 4 hr. drive from Amherstburg, and then back again. Our fingers were crossed for good driving weather, and we had no problems. We left Pearson Airport in Toronto 30 minutes late, enough to make us miss our flight connection in Frankfurt. Two weeks before leaving, Austrian Airlines cancelled our direct flight, and we had to scramble to get them to switch us to Lufthansa. I strongly dislike connecting flights in overcrowded and under serviced European airports. Frankfurt was as bad or worse than Warsaw. We were put on the next plane to Vienna, however, and arrived at our hotel shortly after noon. Our room was ready!
We flew both ways on a Lufthansa 747-400. With 371 seats, it was jammed coming and going.
Hauptbanhoff was our main transport connection, just steps away from our hotel. U-Bahn (subway), overground trains, trams, buses, and the airport train all come here. It is also a vast 2-storey shopping complex.
Vienna is a wonderful city to explore, and it is very easy to lose the crowds and be almost alone.
On our arrival day we took a ride from the start of Tram D, close to our hotel, to the finish, ending in the small village (now a part of Vienna) called Nussdorf. Sunset in Vienna was at 4 pm, so we wandered around the quiet streets of the village before taking the ride back towards our hotel. Vienna was decked out fully for Christmas, with lights, skaters, and small portable shops in many of the larger plazas. We had arrived at the very end of a bad cold spell, and there was still snow on the ground. However, it warmed up for our visit, and other than one night of cold rain, we had no weather issues at all.
On Tuesday we spent the morning with our ViennaWalks book, undertaking Walk #1. Last October we did #2 and #3, so we still have one walk remaining for a future visit. If we return we will combine the Vienna trip with a visit to Budapest, only 2 hours away by train. We continued the walk tour on Wednesday, part of Thursday, and finally completed it on Friday. This was combined with stops at pubs, wine bars, shops, cafes, and other points of interest. Saturday was reserved for a long walk into the Vienna Woods. Though similar to the walk last year, this one included a more direct approach to Kahlenberg, as well as a very steep descent on the other side of the mountain.
While many areas of old Vienna are crammed with tourists, it is an easy matter to step away and find yourself in a very quiet spot.
Maria am Gestade, also visited last year. The churches were usually dark and very chilly inside.
Haydn and Maria Theresa, in the 12 and 11 o'clock position respectively. Every noon hour this massive outdoor clock (which took six years to build) runs through all twelve historical figures, beginning with Marcus Aurelius and Charlemagne, and ending with Haydn. Each figure is accompanied by its own music. The cycle takes 15 minutes to complete, and only happens at noon. By pure luck we arrived at the clock at 11:59 pm!
Our double selfie, at Delirium Pub on Judenplatz. They only serve Belgian beer!!
Buskers in Vienna underground stations are of a whole other category of quality. This is Trio Grotesque, and we bought their CD. Spellbinding performers, and they drew huge crowds.
The village of Grinzing, amidst the grape growing hills of the Vienna Woods. Tram #38 ends its journey from central Vienna in Grinzing. It is a charming little place.
Heading uphill towards Kahlenberg.
We came across a small cemetery in the Vienna Woods.
It was a beautiful day for a December walk in the woods!
Kahlenberg is the highest point in Vienna, and the end of the Austrian Alps, which stop at the Danube river. Up top there is a church, small university, hotel, and cafe with scenic views overlooking the city. Bus #38A also makes the trip, so one doesn't have to walk here.
Interior of St. Joseph Church, Kahlenberg.
View of the Danube and Vienna from the cafe. The air was clearer than our visit last year.
This year we came down the steep eastern side of the mountain, into the village of Kahlenberg-dorf, along the Danube. From the village we were able to catch a bus to a nearby train station.
Vienna at night.
Vienna at night.
St Stephan's Cathedral, Vienna.
Charles Cathedral, Karlsplatz.
On our departure from Frankfurt for Toronto, we watched the ground crew load a Lamborghini onto our plane!
Despite the huge hassle of getting to Vienna and back again, the trip was definitely worth it. The journey capped off a major travel year for us that included a week in London, visits to Cincinnati and Columbus, two weeks in New Mexico, and family to Sudbury for me, and Lindsay for Deb. 2019 should be a much quieter year for us, but if not, you will read about it here!
Thanks for stopping by.
Mapman Mike
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