Tuesday, 1 December 2015

London November 2015: Part 1--Arrival Day; Capital Ring Segment 4

Arrival Day

Our 2nd trip to London in six months was essentially a direct continuation of the April one.  We completed two more segments of the London Loop, and one more of the Capital Ring.  We are nearly halfway through these incredible long distance trails that encircle London.  For the 2nd time we chose to fly Air Canada from Windsor, which is ultra-convenient for us.  We had most of Saturday at home to pack, and we left for our local airport around 3:45 pm, a 25-minute drive.  Security at small airports is a breeze, and relatively stress free.  Our bags were checked through to London, and we boarded our first plane with just small backpacks.

The wait in Toronto is only about an hour before boarding.  The plane was gigantic, and it was full.  Our flight was quiet and smooth, and we slept a few hours, too.  We managed to get our vegan meals.  We were through customs and had our bags in record time, and soon were heading for the Tube.

In London, it is a long way from Heathrow to Croydon.  We had 7-day transport passes for 6 travel zones, beginning today.  Piccadilly Tube Line to Barons Court; switch to District Line to Victoria Station.  Fast train to East Croydon (only 1 stop); short walk to hotel.  We arrived about noon, and they were able to give us a room right away!  Room 1017 gave good views west over some expansive landscape.  We cleaned up a bit, then headed out on our first adventure.  We wanted to stay active, per our jet lag program (infallible; we've used it successfully countless times), and we wanted to use our transport cards some more.

Walking Adventure #1
We caught a train at East Croydon Station, one of London's busier suburban train stations, and one of the main reasons we stay at the Jurys Inn, Croydon.  The area near our hotel is also packed with shopping, cafes, pubs, and has excellent transport connections everywhere, including a tramlink stop directly in front.  The hotel itself is very well managed, and modern and comfortable.  The branch line to Tattenham Corner took us to Chipstead Station, not far from Croydon but well away from the madness of London.  We were dropped off at the quiet suburban station.  Just around the corner was a restaurant, and we were famished.

Tandoori Takeaway was quiet except for us.  We were given royal treatment, and served a number of superb vegetarian dishes.  This is a restaurant worth a return visit--inexpensive and absolutely delicious food, with service above and beyond excellent!
 Looking out the window from our table, Tandoori Takeaway, Chipstead

It was drizzly and gloomy when we emerged, but we felt so wonderful from the food that we didn't care.  Just around the corner was Banstead Wood, a large forest filled with pathways.  Despite the fine English weather, a number of people were out walking on the muddy trails, most with dogs.  Some of the dogs looked as if they might have once been white.  On the other side of the woods we emerged at a farm, and soon found ourselves on a country lane.  Our destination was the next village over, Kingswood, with its train station to take us home, and the promise of a nearby pub.
Distant farmhouse from our lane way.  We are still within the boundary of London!

 Our lane led us down into a lovely valley, passing through the edge of another wood.  This photo reminds me of a painting by Hobbema, a favourite Dutch painter.

The lane led us to another footpath, up out of the valley we had just reached, then up to another lane leading into Kingswood, a second quiet and distant suburb.  We eventually ended up on a paved road, and followed it downhill to the station.  The lovely and welcoming Kingswood Arms was just across the road.  It was pretty lively here on a Sunday afternoon, but we snagged a table and got comfy.  The walk had only been 3 miles, but we'd only slept 2-3 hours so far.  I had a glass of ale (see pub page, at the end of this update).  Later, we caught our train back to East Croydon and went to our hotel and rested for a time on the large, very comfy bed.
Deb is outside of the Kingswood Arms Pub.  Two fires were on, and the place was busy on a Sunday afternoon!

Kingswood Rail Station opened in 1897.  We had train times with us, and knew when to exit the pub to catch our train home.
 
 
Walking Adventure #2: Capital Ring Segment 4

We had left Segment 3 incomplete last April, choosing to stop just before entering Crystal Palace Park.  We returned to Penge West Station next day to begin where we left off, and were soon immersed in one of London's most famous parks.  The Capital Ring, like its bigger sibling The London Loop, attempts to connect as many of London's parks as it can by pathway.  The routes also take in historic houses, and the scenery, whether urban or parkland, is always of interest.
Crystal Palace Park signboard

The park is 200 acres, and once housed one of the man made wonders of the world.  Crystal Palace burned down in 1936, and though the park is still popular, its heyday was when the Palace was open to the public.  The front pediment of the Palace is still in place--it was 1750' long when it was built, and the park is about to undergo some much-needed restoration.  There is a maze and a dinosaur display, original to the park.  We essentially marched round the perimeter to the railway station, where Segment 4 officially begins.
 The central avenue of Crystal Palace Park.
Walking a quiet, forested section of the park.

 A train from London emerges from a tunnel on approach to Crystal Park Station.  Built to handle thousands of visitors to Crystal Palace at a time, the station is still impressive today.

The next part of the Ring passes through a residential section first, then a small but fun commercial district.  The hill climbing is significant, though some really fine views make the effort worthwhile.
Looking east from the summit of Belvedere Road, one of several hills climbed on our walk today.  We are not too far from the station here.

My table at the White Lion, first of two back-to-back pubs at noon hour today. 

We diverted from the Capital Ring, Deb to visit a bookstore and then a cafe, and me to pay my respects to two fine pubs in very close proximity (see pub page for fuller details).  Crow on The Hill Bookstore, according to a reliable source, was quite a fine establishment.  By the time I was finished at the White Lion, my reliable companion rejoined me for my visit to The Alma, across the road.

     Returning to the Ring, we ate our lunch at a picnic table just within the next park before resuming our walk.  We ended up at Streatham Common Station, after passing through a half dozen large parks, including some lovely woodlands and the striking Norwood Mansion.
 Looking towards central Croydon from the Capital Ring.  We weren't that far from our hotel.

 Norwood Mansion, or at least the part of it that still remains.

 Once the gatehouse to the Norwood estate.  We would love to move in!

 Helpful signs along the Ring.  At this point we had now walked 21 1/4 miles since starting out several years ago.  The Ring is 75 miles altogether, but we have also walked three segments further along.

 We finished up with coffee and ale at The Railway, across from Streatham Common Station.  A full report on this wonderful pub will come in the final segment of this trip report.

We got comfy at The Railway after our walk, resting our feet and talking about what we had seen and encountered today.  There was one more pub in our future, as we eventually left for Parsons Green.  Jennifer G. had chosen a pub for us to visit from her copy of The Good Pub Guide, and we headed there next before returning to our hotel to rest up for tomorrow's longer walk.  The White Horse turned out to be a fabulous pub!  More on our visit there later.
Continued in Part 2

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